Sounds 2 Sounds 2023

For me doing Sounds to Sounds was kind of last minute. I had been building up for months to the GSB in January after my knee injury in winter had ruled out everything else. Then I had to pull the pin after three days of that.

So I think my wife took all that into account when she agreed to a special pass out to do the 1500km Sounds to Sounds brevet which also involved some amount of travel time at each end on top of the riding days. I figured the route itself was doable in 10 days so on that basis I signed up.

Day 1: Ships Cove to Awatere Valley

Friday March 3, wave two of the S2S, sometime after 6am. Three boats with around 90 riders in total headed off before dawn from Picton to Ships Cove, Queen Charlotte Sound.

Given the single track start it was wise of Jonathan Kennett to loosely organise the grand depart (around 8:30am) according to ambitions. I was in the first group: those wanting to get beyond Blenheim the first day. My objective was to get home to Christchurch (since it was on the route) before the kids went to bed on Sunday night.

I remember passing someone on the first steep section who was pushing, he was running a distinctive green gravel bike with a belt drive single speed hence the pushing. He called himself Tenet on MAProgress (real name Peter) and I found he kept reappearing in front of me much of the day somehow, like he was teleporting.

One reason for that is I kept making navigation mistakes on the QC track, ending up at accommodation point dead ends, the biggest being Camp Bay (a few others did the same on that one). I remember the steep climb back out to get back to the route at Kenepuru Saddle. This saddle was a junction point where there were two route options: continue the Queen Charlotte track where it got technical or take Kenepuru Road until Mistletoe Bay. I really wanted to carry on along the singletrack, having not done any of the QCT, but due to the fragile knee and time constraints I decided to take the road like 95% of the others.

The QC single track from Mistletoe Bay to Anakiwa was a fun section but so many walkers. I made an effort to slow down and be friendly. They must have found it annoying having so many cyclists coming through.

On the road section to Picton I got chatting riding with a random roadie local just out for a loop ride. Once in Picton sometime after 2pm I retrieved the rest of my gear from the backpackers I'd stayed in and couldn't turn down the offer to use the shower facilities. The road to Blenheim was quite busy and not in ferry unloading bursts like I'd been led to expect. The separated cycle trail from Spring Creek was a pleasant change.

Resupply in Blenheim then off around 5:30pm along the Taylor River Trail towards Taylor Pass. I had no plan for where to stop for the night but figured I wanted to get over the pass for a head start on the next day. I ran into one S2S rider who was packing up his tent as he'd tried to use the corner of some sort mown area by the Taylor Dam and had been "moved on".

Taylor's Pass was a nice enough climb. Early on along the Awatere Valley I was feeling good and cruising along the tarmac when I spotted a sign indicating a basic campsite. It was only 7:30 and still an hour or so of daylight but I figured I'd achieved my objective for the day. The rider I'd met on the way to Taylor's Pass then Tenet soon joined me then another rider not on the S2S, in fact coming the other way, arrived a little later.

Day 1 stats: 160km 2387m 9h 21m (moving) 11h 53m (elapsed) 17km/hr

Day 2: Awatere Valley to Culverden

Got away around 6:30am a few minutes after Tenet but on the flat tarmac I got on the aerobars and overtook him early on. This was a first of many occasions where my urgency due to ambitious, hence uncertain, objectives overrode my sociability as I could have slowed down and chatted for at least a while. As it turned out, he eventually passed me back while I was stopped to take a photo.

One thing that riding briefly with Tenet taught me was how single speeders get up hills. He had to stand and his cadence was incredibly low (as you can imagine) but he was able to keep standing indefinitely, slowly rocking the bike from side to side. I was inspired, at least subconsciously, so I started getting in the habit of standing more in all situations including descents and slowly taught myself to stand on the pedals efficiently for increasingly long periods. I'd had to stop standing in the early months of knee injury recovery.

The ride through the Awatere Valley was very up and down and I was having a slow legs day, particularly the morning and early afternoon.

Having had low energy periods after lunch on the GSB I decided to spread out my meals with a system of three stage lunches. 11, 12, 1pm. On the first and second days I had three buns I would consume while riding quietly, one for each time slot. It reduced stoppage time and prevented that lull quite effectively.

At Cobb Cottage I met an older couple who were in the first wave and doing it at a more sedate pace. They'd come along from earlier in the valley and decided this was far enough for the day (no camping allowed on Acheron Road). This couple seemed rather typical of the S2S participants. Those trying to do it under 10 days were by far the minority. It makes sense to take more time if you have it and many were retired couples or at least that sort of age. I was surprised how many farm stays there were spread through the back roads including the Awatere Valley and it seems they got plenty of business out of the S2S.

No time to waste for me, after the toilet stop and filling my bottles while chatting I was off again in the afternoon sun towards Ward Pass. Acheron Road through Molesworth was easier going after Ward Pass, straight and flat then gentle rolling.

I made good use of my aero bars as I had a lot of head wind and flat sections but even so it was challenging at times with the rough gravel. I also couldn't stay on them for long periods as they were uncomfortably low. I'd picked them up cheap and not got around to upgrading to some that could take risers.

At one stopping point by the Acheron River (near Pig Trough Bridge) I heard the loud call of a karearea (NZ Falcon) just before it flew over me. By the (small) size of it a male, I don't remember seeing one in the wild so close before.

The first riders I'd seen since Cobb Cottage held a gate open for me just before the end of Acheron Road. I left them behind and headed into what looked like rain coming. At the base of Jollies Pass the rain properly got going and I had to put on my waterproofs and ride up through the puddles and down into Hanmer in persistent rain.

I had intended on getting to Culverden but it was already after 7:30pm and it had been a long day so I was resigned to try and find something in Hanmer. Being a Saturday night, at short notice it was always going to be tricky to avoid camping in the wet. I couldn't even use my phone due to raindrops on the touch screen. First campground was taken over by a school. The second (Alpine Holiday Park) was full and kindly rang around for me but she said it was unusually busy in town. Out of the rain in her office, I made a call to Culverden Hotel which had space (phew!) and I said I'd be there about 9ish (in my head it was 26km so a bit over an hour away). He (another Alan) offered to save me a meal.

So off I went down on the aero bars into the dusk and by the time I got to the state highway it was dark and still raining. I had to call the Alan again after I passed the Mouse Point turn off at 9pm as it was 10km further than I thought. Arriving at the hotel 9:30pm I was immediately served a very welcome roast (I was very hungry by now) and a pint and then shown to my room. It was an old fashioned style place containing a shared bathroom with a bath where I got to soak my tired legs for a bit.

Day 2 stats: 205km, 2919m 13h 25m (moving) 15h 5m (elapsed) 15km/hr

Day 3: Culverden to Christchurch

I had a very late start figuring I didn't have that far to go and it was fairly flat.

First mistake I made was to forget that the Culverden cafe where I was starting was not only open but was the only supply open on a Sunday until Amberly, at least four hours riding away. I had enough food but it could have been better and I would have eaten more probably.

So another slow start with weary legs from the previous day I was soon passed by a wave one couple who'd started in Hanmer that morning. They were happily drafting each other to keep up the pace, against normal brevet rules, but the S2S really doesn't feel like any sort of race. Other brevets are also not races but this for most seems at another level, on the way to being some sort of structured cycle touring.

We met a trail angel at an intersection standing in the rain with an umbrella handing out bars in wrappers. I had difficulty opening mine and he commented it was probably due to the cold fingers. It probably was but I didn't realise until afterwards talking to other riders that it was none other than Mark Inglis, someone who would know a lot about numb extremities from the cold... Clearly I'm not observant enough to look down at peoples legs.

Pyramid Valley seemed like a pleasant place to do a training ride on a nice day. On a wet day with tired legs it was a drag, literally with the sticky wet gravel.

Lunch at Amberley and then carry on to Rangiora where I met a couple, I think the same couple yet again, and we travelled largely together towards Christchurch where it finally stopped raining. I got home just in time to have a shower before dinner.

Day 3 stats: 156km 600m 9h 15m (moving) 14h 48m (elapsed) 16.9km/hr

Three days break

The leather saddle I'd used on training rides had formed a rough section right under a sit bone (the supplier subsequently agreed it was a warranty issue) and I had a worrying saddle sore forming in the same spot. I realised that this really wasn't a race and my pace was more about minimising time away. So why not stop for a few days recovery?

So, to the surprise of those dot watching, I decided to stay at home for three days where I worked most of each day and fixed a few things on my bike including swapping the seat and pedals (I had run annoying hybrid flats for my knee in case of techie descents on QC track). Last but not least I acquired and fitted some new aero bars, with 4cm risers to make them more comfortable. I'd found my cheap ones invaluable but I realised how much more use they could be if I could stay on them for longer periods. I had also two numb fingers on my left hand (and only that hand) from the day through the Molesworth so I wanted to change something in the cockpit.

Day 4: Christchurch to Pleasant Point

I think this was the first day when I started with objectives like "at least Geraldine". I set off about 6:15am along the tricky to follow cycle paths of Christchurch in the dark showery weather, arriving in Lincoln nicely timed for my morning coffee and some food for the road.

With rested legs and those new aero bars I was off at a good pace along the Canterbury Plains.  The bars were a huge improvement and ideal for this first day with them. The only climb of any note all day was a short one after Rakaia gorge.

I timed my arrival in Geraldine just after 5pm so the dinner rush was on with queues and long wait times. I didn't want to wait around so got some hot food in the supermarket alongside my other food supplies. This was a new trick I found a bit of a time saver and I discovered you can get quite healthy options to add to the mix. The main tactic is to eat on the spot or nearby so you can dispose of any packaging rather than have to carry it.

I'd called ahead to book a cabin in Pleasant Point before I got to Geraldine but when I got to the cabin it was around 7:30 so another early night. But my "at least Geraldine" goal for the day was satisfied and I had a comfy and cheap night. I met Marianne, one of the "out of band" S2S riders at the campground.

Day 4 stats: 228km 1000m 10h 45m (moving) 13h 7m (elapsed) 21.2km/hr

Day 5: Pleasant Point to Quailburn Campsite

The local dairy that managed the campground said they would be open from 5am which was convenient for me to drop off the key and pay (and get a few last minute supplies). I got there around 6:30am and it was surprisingly busy with locals stopping off on their way somewhere.

My objective for today was "at least Twizel". For a while it was winding along back roads through farming country, mostly flat until Rockwood Road started getting into the hills. Near the beginning of that road I spotted a wallaby that hopped across the road in front of me. I didn't expect to see one this far north of the Mackenzie Country.

Rockford Road goes over a hill with good views then descends the other side to Cricklewood. After that the route wound its way towards Mackenzie Pass which didn't really climb much (that I noticed) until getting close to the pass. Down the other side is a monument commemorating the discovery of the Mackenzie country.

I got to Lake Tekapo sometime after 1pm and the usual stuffing myself and grabbing some food for the road, knowing Twizel wasn't far away (5okm).

I had another slow resumption along the canals but after a tourist on a sit up hire e-bike dared to pass me (while I was stopped briefly) my legs woke up and the rest of the day they felt pretty strong. I don't know if there is some sort of competitive subconscious thing going on but it was often when someone passed me, for whatever innocuous reason, that I got going. It's not something that happens unless riding alone I suspect.

In Twizel I met another S2S rider, from aussie, who was similarly unsure how much further he would go today. I thought about getting takeways for dinner but the timing was such that I'd have to wait. So the four square was it and it was fine.

I made quick progress along the canals before joining the singletrack along the Ohau waterfront where there was reception and good timing to FaceTime my wife and kids while riding along (a practice I'd started on the GSB while climbing the Pisa Range). I got to Ohau Lodge after 7pm and it was still light so I figured I might as well carry on to Quailburn Campsite which I did in the fading light.

I'd ridden this section on two GSBs earlier in the day but it was a great section to be riding at dusk. Something you learn bikepacking is that the best times to be riding are at the start and end of the day. But you only discover this if you start early and/or finish late.

In the dark on the narrow singletrack I had a possum screech at me from atop a low signpost (I passed it close and wondered if it could have lunged at me and done any damage). I also very nearly ran over an albino rabbit seemingly pinned to the spot in the narrow track ahead of me.

Arriving at the campsite around 9:15pm there were at least three other parties, all S2S I think.

Day 5 stats: 210km 2165m 11h 45m (moving) 14h 48m (elapsed) 17.9km/hr

Day 6: Quailburn Campsite to Bannockburn

When I set off in the dark sometime after 6am I was the only one up. I was planning on a cooked breakfast in Omarama. It was a cold morning and I hadn't put on enough extra clothes so my hands were a bit numb when I got to Omarama around 7:30. At least it wasn't a headwind unlike last GSB.

I arrived and ordered my breakfast and within five minutes groups of tourists started to make the place busy.

On the way to Omarama Saddle I met a rider coming the other way pushing his bike. He had a puncture and he'd replaced the tube but "it wasn't holding air" so had turned around and was heading back to Omarama where there are no bike shops... If it wasn't for my ambitious goals for the day once again (in this case "at least Clyde") I'd have stopped to help him out but I just checked he had a patch kit and suggested he sit in the creek just behind me using the water to find the leak and patch it and also find and remove the cause of the original puncture. Worth spending the time working on the problem rather than walking a bike for hours.

I'd been up Omarama Saddle six weeks earlier and this time was no different, with my extra low gearing since I'd had to replace my rear derailleur (I have a 2x with 38/24 at the front and 10-42 at the back that used to be 10-36) I comfortably rode up the whole way while most people pushed a fair bit of if not most of the steep stuff.

I passed a couple of guys on the way up and chatted to them and then met two more waiting at the top. One said to me something about "Nigel" and I looked behind me and saw no-one but they headed off. I realised later they mis-took me for a Nigel they had been waiting for a long time to catch up. I think he may have pulled out.

Pushed all of the crossings of the Manuherikia to reduce knee injury risk of having to dismount in a hurry on slippery rocks. I think my bottom bracket and hubs would have been happy about that.

Met Ryan at Oterehua who was one of the ones who mistook me for a Nigel at Omarama Saddle. I left before him, jumping on the rail trail. I had wondered if it might be busy and have to slow down but I was able to ride full tilt and it was very fast! No other riders whatsoever before my extra unplanned stop at Omakau. While setting off again Ryan caught up and passed me, so, as usual, my legs woke up, I got on the aero bars but it took me a surprisingly long time to catch up to (aerobar-less) Ryan. It was worth it as we were riding two abreast chatting all the way (slightly downhill) to Alexandra, still going at a fast pace 35-40km/hr much of the time.

In Alex I did my usual supermarket for all the things. I needed enough to get me all the way to Garston, and more since there's not much really till Te Anau. This time I found some cooked chicken drumsticks and salad for dinner from the deli and unashamedly consumed it on the park bench outside, beside the bin which took the rubbish.

Back on the familiar river trail to Clyde where I detoured across the bridge to call on my aunt very briefly and have a glass (or three) of refreshingly cold water from her fridge.

Back on the trail about 7:30 I knew I wouldn't get to Bannockburn till well after dark. I remember subtle little yellow warning signs regarding sharp unprotected corners with sheer drops below. Possums struggled to get out of my way on the clip-on bridge sections, having to run ahead all the way to the end, looking a lot like cats.

At Cairnmuir campground a bit after 10pm I struggled to find my cabin as office closed but there was a big group of motorbikers having a BBQ who assisted. I commented that I'd ridden from Omarama and they invited me to share in their leftovers. Free protein! I obliged and got plied with lots of questions. We ride a lot of the same country as them, just at a very different pace!

Day 6 stats: 212km 1916m 12h 35m (moving) 16h 7m (elapsed) 16.8km/hr

Day 7: Bannockburn to Middle Hill Shelter

I was a bit concerned about the forecast but also wanted a little sleep in. My excuse was that I couldn't pay at the office until 7am but still I didn't get away till 7:45. Objective for today was "at least Mossburn".

I joined some others at Bannockburn itself but eventually left them behind once the Nevis climb started. They were already pushing long before it steepened. That would have been a long morning! I was passed by the motorcyclists and support crew 4wds I had met at the campground. This was to be a theme through much of the Nevis as we kept leapfrogging each other.

Soon after 10am I was at the top (Duffers Saddle) grateful again for my gearing: no walking required. I had a food stop myself during which I turned around and there was a woman with her kit off, apparently she'd done every one of the compulsory photo stops naked and didn't seem to care there were plenty of people around at this one!

The descent from the saddle to the Nevis was lovely. Scenic, fast, smooth but then it was onto the familiar "bobbling around" bony/rocky road surface I remembered from GSB 2021. My legs back in lazy mode I rode with another "touring style" couple for a while who kept wondering why I was so slow. Eventually I left them behind as they stopped for lunch.

At one point I had a gravel cyclist on a blue bike catch up to me and ask "Is this your jersey?". It had fallen off the bungies on the back of my saddle bag. That would have been a major loss! He carried on ahead of me and, well, I guess my legs woke up once more! I always found the rocky terrain of the upper and lower Nevis energy sapping and the trick, that unfortunately I only started doing later in day, was to rely more on my newfound ability to stand on the pedals for long periods. Once I started doing this I progressed much quicker. The head of the valley rose out from the river and the track smoothed out with a consistent uphill gradient. Back in my element, I cruised past the blue bike plus another rider who'd passed me earlier. Down the other side to the Garston cafe before closing (got there around 3:30pm).

Back on the aero bars for the rail trails of the Round the Mountain trail. I remembered the farm with the many gates that took half an hour to get through during GSB 2021. This time the gates were reconfigured so that many of them were locked open which made a big difference. I was just about through it when I saw a  farmer on his quad bike and waved and he came over and chatted for a bit. He was with the motorbikers at Cairnmuir campground BBQ so remembered me from there! I wish I'd asked him about the story behind the gates.

Long periods of tail wind I knew would mean a long period of headwind getting to Mossburn. Others took this into account, stopping at Lumsden instead. The forecast had been for the rain to come in from 4pm but it didn't start until I'd been slogging for an hour into said headwind. I arrived in Mossburn sometime after 6pm stopping at the hotel for dinner. The publican recognised me from having passed me on his (unladen) bike on the way here saying he'd expected me earlier! He said others were really struggling into that headwind. He suggested if I could ride another 25km I could get a shelter with a toilet even showing me on my phone topo map where it was. A friend who had done RTM recently texted me to say it was a "glorified bus stop" to which I replied "sounds perfect!".

By the time I'd eaten, the rain and wind had died down so my ride to the shelter was relatively pleasant. I got there after 9pm and evicted the existing occupant (see pic).

Day 7 stats: 161km 2246m 11h 30m (moving) 14h 4m (elapsed) 14km/hr

Day 8: Middle Hill Shelter to Homer Hut

The rain that was falling off and on all night was forecast to stop around dawn. By the time I got going sometime after 6am it pretty much had but it was quite cold. Slow start as usual and quiet early morning country roads before hitting the highway. There was a good dusting of snow on the hills all around.

I was looking forward to stopping at the Spring and Thistle but it was closed when I came past about 8:20am (it was a Sunday). The highway was fairly busy but it didn't seem to be long before the route turned off it and eventually the river track started which carried me all the rest of the way to Te Anau. I found it fun and flowy and simply enjoying riding it woke up the legs.

Arriving in Te Anau sometime after 11am one thing I remember doing was going into a bike shop to borrow a floor pump. No more off road riding so might as well optimise the tyres for tarmac. I think I went a bit overboard at the supermarket but I needed to get a number of meals.

I set off in the sunshine for Homer Hut about 12:30 hoping to get there well before dark so as to not miss the views. The road was busier than I expected but pleasant enough and plenty scenic. I appreciated the digital roadworks signs warning of cyclists "cycling event" etc. I got a text saying "home stretch" and I texted back "Homer".

Generally I just kept up a steady pace, not rushed or lazy and arrived at Homer Hut about 7:30. Early enough I could have ridden to the finish in daylight but nowhere to stay so no point. The warden invited me to bring my bike inside away from kea access.

Day 8 stats: 172km 1813m 9h 52m (moving) 12h 28m (elapsed) 17.4km/hr

Day 8.1: Homer Hut to Milford Sound

A short climb to the Homer Tunnel entrance which I timed the lights well enough to ride straight into. All downhill and plenty of time to stop for photos. I joined two others from Homer Hut who had a 9:30am shuttle to catch for the ride to the finish. We got there 8:20am so technically within eight 24 hour days given the grand depart was after 8:30. I'd had three days break though anyway.

I had a Real Journeys bus booked for 3:30pm to take me to Queenstown so had to wait around. One other couple I talked to had paid 3x as much for the same journey around the same time with another operator! I was pretty much tagging along on a tour bus. Plenty of space in the hold to slide my bike into without dismantling it though.

No mobile data or public wifi in Milford but I was able to make phone calls to Katherine to help finalise transport back to Christchurch. To pass the time I headed back up the road to try and find some bush walks but didn't find much.

Final day stats: 20km 154m 55min 22.6km/hr