Tour te Ika a Maui 2026

I agreed with Katherine to just do the North Island Tour Aotearoa. I had ridden none of the route (apart from a bit of road near Cambridge) unlike the South Island route where I have ridden "all the good bits" as part of other trips (caveat, I don't actually know which bits are good unless I rode all of them).

I decided to take my new-this-year gravel bike to better suit the route. It proved to roll a lot quicker on tarmac and performed at least as good on gravel.

With the tidal once-a-day sailing of the Kaipara ferry booked for 3pm on day three we had a long time to get to Poutu Point. I decided to pay attention to my numbers: Heart rate and especially power and keep things in a comfortable range. I suspect I usually do short bursts too high intensity on day one and it tires me. Heart rate stays low after day one so keeping an eye on power is the main game.

Day 1: Cape Reinga to Rawene

Left Kaitaia with what we thought was plenty of time but we had to set bikes back up from having to fit them on small car rack. None of us had to pick up trackers so didn't even see the desk with Mr Mapprogress and the stickers being given out sitting in the dark.

We were ready just in enough time to get to the lighthouse for photo and rush back for briefing. Jonathan Kennett did his usual ask to see if anyone whakapapa from the region who wanted to do the karakia then did his own when no takers.

In the rush I also failed to turn on tracking on my own SPOT tracker (it was on but not tracking). Even when it had been going for a while it wasn't showing on the map. Ended up stopping for a bit to email the helpful Shane (Mr Mapprogress) to ensure it is set up right. It continued behaving badly all trip.

The Te Paki stream was all sand by the dunes which immediately got in with the brake pads. Water and sand doesn't make encouraging noises. I took my time and got left behind by Scott and Hamish on MTBs. There was a 500m or so walk in soft dry sand near the end. My attempt to wash the sand off before the beach using water from the stream in my spare water bottle was pretty effective.

The 80ish km of 90 mile beach was same same all the way but fast. I was riding with Craig for a while as we were similar pace. We took videos of each other on the move. Eventually left him to go on when caught Scott and Hamish who'd waited a few minutes for me to catch up. After that a more social pace. After quick lunch (where I didn’t have much with me as left some in motel fridge) I head off on my own firm sand allowing speeds 24-30km/hr comfortably.

I passed a few people and chatted to some including Brendo, a Sydneysider who told me he'd tried to ride on the soft sand at the end of Te Paki stream, fell over and squashed his backpack full of raro water which went all through his clothes.

Missed turn to holiday park for bike wash as off route so came back. Brushes and bucket there so used brush on chain and cassette and hosed sand off bike. Lots sand in socks and shoes too from hike a bike.

Saying goodbye to Hamish and re-uniting with Scott he soon suggested I ride ahead as he was going to take it slow “next 60km” which effectively meant all the way to Rawene. My gravel bike was fast and quiet on tarmac and it was rolling on that all the way to tiny Broadwood. I stopped for chocolate milk and decided to carry on but stopped on side of road to look up dinner food and accommodation options in case better not to go on.

Coming out of Broadwood some friendly local pedestrians called out "you guys are crazy" along with some encouragement.

The route left the tarmac onto a gravel forest road that undulated and climbed fairly high with views down to the water. Enjoyed the flow until my dry bag fell off pannier as I'd substituted a Voile strap for missing one of the two that came with it (thanks Pack Gear Go.... not). Long fast descent to Kohukohu village with pub where I got 2x fish and chips with Scott in mind (and texted him as he wasn’t sure he could make 8pm ferry to Rawene) but they were small. While eating a cyclist came past then came in it was Paul! (Paul had ridden from Kerikeri as couldn't make start due to mechanical from flight up). He got some too then I looked on tracker and Scott had turned right straight for ferry so I packed up the meal and followed arriving at ferry 7:45. Scott scoffed the small meal and we got on. Woman taking money ($2 each) thought I looked tired. Scott pointed out it was other way around. Indeed Scott had found it a tough day and I was still fresh.

Across there was only one little store open so we got some food. Then outside a woman pulled over in a car and started talking to us. She said a cyclist had missed the ferry and had a booking at her campsite. They were going to pick him up with their own boat! Turned out it was the same Brendo I'd met earlier "would never happen in Sydney".

Rode to campsite and pitched our tents in the dark. Insects including mozzies pestering to keep out. I'd anticipated this hence packing my whole tent rather than just fly. Warm humid evening made a shower very welcome. Slept pretty well.

Day 2: Rawene to Dargaville

I was a bit slower than others to pack up. A possum had stolen someone’s bag of food outside their tent. We all three headed down to Boatshed cafe for cooked breakfast. Met Jonathan just arriving from ferry. Headed up the road trying to match Scott’s pace on undulating tarmac but eventually I went on ahead and stopped at Opononi where I had parked camper overnight two years ago with family (with permission). Had coffee and got a few supplies and moved on in the bright sun. I went on ahead and waited at next village with store for Paul then Scott 10-15 minutes after me.

The main climb through Waipoua to start Scott suggested Paul and I go ahead. Once the climb properly started I started to creep away from Paul despite watching my power. Stopped at Tane Mahuta and took a photo for another rider. Coming out Paul arrived then Jonathan who chatted for bit then took my photo with bike.

Long descent then more climbing and getting a bit warm there was a little ice cream stall just at the top of the last climb so I stopped. They said they were just opening up and we would be their first customers so I suggested they take a promo photo of us. They cracked both cones as clearly learning on the job but we showed the good side for the photo and they gave them to us for free. Basic ice creams (we found out later they were $5).

Big gravel descent into Trounson Park. I hadn’t been there and would have had a look around. While Paul topped up his water I topped up my tyres. Moving on, Paul behind me noticed my rear tyre was flat! Turned out valve core wasn’t tightened properly (finger tight and dislodged when topping up) but pumped up in a minute with my e pump.

We were cruising the flat gravel at quite good pace but I was thinking of Scott possibly on his own with the heat and hills. We went through some fledgling scraps of cycle trail and past the village where recently a woman had been mauled to death by a pack of dogs (since put down).

I stopped under the shade of a tree to wait for Scott and Paul carried on as planning to ride alt route (extra 100km) instead of Kaipara ferry and hoped to get through Auckland tomorrow.

Sorted a few things while waiting including a block of chocolate which had turned partially liquid in my backpack. Poor choice of place to put it.

Soon Scott arrived having a great time, in a group of three, welcoming me to join the “slow boat to china” so I jumped aboard. Pace a little slower but social I chatted to Jonathan for a while.

Hot and dry and my water low, and what I had was warm, there was a trail angel family with cold water and watermelon plus frozen grapes. They are famous as been doing it a long time and we got the origin story and were treated to a trick involving crossing between two moving cargo bikes.

Very civilised arrival time in Dargaville had sit down meal with a number of other cyclists before heading to campsite. They had a separate area and encouraged us to camp close together. A little surprising given they were charging $27 each.

Day 3: Dargaville to Papatoetoe

Woke to early risers before 5:30 after a bit of a restless night. Wanted the sleep in but for some reason people need to get up super early to ride 60km for a 3pm ferry. No idea why. Put my earphones in with a super boring podcast to both shut out and override noise and slept till 7:30. Popped my head out and all the tents were gone apart from mine! Scott was finishing packing his bike.

Scott and I headed out for a leisurely cooked breakfast and I did a minor resupply then we headed down the road. A couple other riders joined us for a bit along the tarmac. At a later stage I decided to carry on my own and just about to start the gravel I caught up with Brendo again and heard about his latest adventure with a "cheap" hotel in Dargaville where there was no towel and when asking for it they insinuated he stole it. "Everyone there looked like they could beat me up" and when he found there was no towel with his basic room "what do others who stay in those rooms do? They don't shower". I expect he was in for a lot more adventures.

Hot day everyone was sitting around waiting for ferry outside campsite. Not much in Poutu Point. Eventually the call went out: ferry had arrived and so everyone gradually went down. Volunteers were sought to help load bikes. An upper body weakling I didn't volunteer but Scott did. My bike was one of the first and I was snapped with Scott's bike in queue to load (hopefully that pic won't go anywhere as bike way too big for me!). A couple of people turned up very late, hot and tired just making the ferry in time, to cheers from the crowd.

A journey of three hours was a good chance to catch up with some old timers. I asked Jonathan if he was planning some sort of non-guidebook re TA for 10 year anniversary. He said they were working on a new revision of a limited run coffee table book. I briefly recounted Gary's (completing rest of TA despite unknowingly having three broken bones in crash over car in Auckland) adventure and suggested he put call out for stories. Some rain on the way in but when got off it had stopped.

By the time we unloaded all the bikes (LIFO order so mine was nearly last, Scott helping unload) it was well after 7pm. We were determined to get to Scott's Dad's in Papatoetoe 80km away. I also wanted to get to Morrinsville the following night which was 200km-ish from there. But we still needed some food before heading off so detoured into Helensville for fish burger at fish and chip shop. Soon hills appeared and it was dark. Lucky to spot a passive trail angel sign hidden in dark for a box of water refill bottles which was welcome.

The trip into Auckland itself was tricky with all the difficult-for-me-to-follow cycle path intersections but it was otherwise fairly fast. We had to climb Mt Eden through closed gates and found a fancy land-rover and teenagers had special access to open the bollard. Moving through Cornwall Park I asked Scott if they still had sheep. Immediately I asked we heard some bleating, soon after which we realised we'd just missed a turn. The exit gates were closed of course (11:30pm by now) and the ancient turnstile wouldn't take bikes so I lifted mine over the wall and Scott carried his heavy bike through it over his head.

We got to Papatoetoe 1:45am and Scott's dad was awake as had been dot watching and was pleased to see us. By the time we got a load of washing in the machine it was probably 2am. I still wanted to get to Morrinsville next day so didn't postpone the alarm too much (7am I think).

Day 4: Papatoetoe to Morrinsville

I set off 8ish leaving Scott to catch up with his dad and bro (latter to ride with over Hunuas). I enjoyed the ride through Totara Park which had a trail angel giving out yummy red liquorice. Soon after that it became open straight roads and I got my average speed up to over 20km/hr before stopping for coffee and gourmet pie second breakfast in Clevedon. Just before I left Jonathan and Brett and one other turned up. They'd nearly caught me up on a climb before I got on the aerobars.

Put the headphones in for the long climb up through Hunuas. Pine forest and then native forest and a long descent down past dams. I ran into Mark and Hana who'd impressively caught the Pine Harbour ferry shortcut last night (11pm I think) and we kept leapfrogging each other on the way to Kaiaua where we had the award winning fish and chips before I got on the aerobars for the long flat section to come.

I had turned off the Garmin nav because I had the entire North Island GPX loaded and it would lock up if recalculating ever went off route (found the setting later to stop auto re-routing) and ended up heading most of the way to Thames off route. Dot watchers certainly noticed and wondered!

Caught up with old uni flatmate Debbie outside Paeroa where she lives. She came out and rode with me on her MTB for a bit. A quick resupply in Paeroa and then back on the trails to Te Aroha. No reason to stop in Te Aroha, pushed all the way to the closest exit point of the trail, 9km from Katherine's folks and arrived 8:45pm. Average speed for entire day still over 20km/hr despite the Hunuas. Still feeling strong.

Checked tracker and Scott was stopped in Paeroa for a late dinner. Agreed to pick him up in ute from Te Aroha. Got chatting over food (including finding out for first time there was new war started a few days ago) and nearly forgot to pick up Scott. Was another late night after all as 20 min drive each way to Te Aroha.

Day 5: Morrinsville to Mangakino

Another early rise to drop Scott back at Te Aroha then a leisurely 9am start for me after doing a few chores including fixing TV and quick tutorial for Margie on how to change derailleur gears on her e-bike, as you do. Chris kindly dropped me off in ute on course where I left off and I from there I was in pursuit of Scott. Didn't catch him until they (Scott, Jonathan, Brett and another) were literally pulling up outside a cafe for early lunch in Cambridge. A leisurely sit down meal after which I called into a bike shop to borrow a DH alignment tool.

Back on the road it was nearly all undulating tarmac into a mild but cool southerly headwind with some average views over Lake Karapiro (a mandatory TA photo which I missed due to not being worth photographing!). Finally not feeling strong anymore was kind of bored when the wind got up then felt a few raindrops before a proper hailstorm started. There was a haybarn right there so Scott and I retreated inside and Scott threatened to fall asleep on a haybale. It passed fairly quickly.

It turned out that was the first of three storms. I didn't bother putting on rainpants and between storms we'd dry out. By the third you could sense it coming (wind picking up first indicator).

Past Maraetae Dam the trail was closed due to storm damage so we had to ride the road. I optimistically turned off later on and found the last singletrack section to Mangakino was open, though eroded, and it was a fun first intro to riding my loaded gravel bike on singletrack which went well. I messaged Dad in Tokoroa and he and Joel came down to Mangakino for fish and chips and a brief catch up by which time it was dark.

Scott had booked the only accommodation in town (lodge). Just about to go to bed when Jonathan poked his head in the door to share morning departure time plans of 6:30. His intent was not to "treadmill" like today but make time to enjoy one of the best bits of the TA with the Timber Trail.

Day 6: Mangakino to Taumarunui

A big breakfast from last night's no-need-to-carry-far resupply we didn't get out the door till 6:50. Jonathan was a few minutes after that. It was cold and I hadn't put warm gloves on. I couldn't feel my fingers so reluctantly had to stop and dig out gloves which I hadn't made accessible in expectation the North Island would not be cold this time of year! One of my electronic shifters was also not working in the cold but I fortunately had the luxury of buttons on my aerobars as well. Jonathan and, non-TA bike packer Justin on a heavily loaded e-bike, caught me up and we collected Scott and Brett at some point and carried on to towards the Timber Trail.

We eventually reached the Centre of the North Island where Jonathan entertainingly explained how the centre was determined (to do with a balancing a cardboard cut out of North Island on a pin). Brett re-attempted his photo op of 2016 balancing on the pointy plinth on his stomach but couldn't quite do it this time. So I stepped up and fortunately managed it! A fairly long stop in the end.

Eventually got onto the Timber Trail proper. Jonathan asked Scott if he could turn off his flashing dynamo driven rear lights not knowing that it wasn't just a simple switch! Scott did it anyway but never got them going again afterwards, having to borrow one of my spare rear lights for the rest of TA.

At about the highest point there was a picnic table where we had a fairly long lunch before heading on. On my gravel bike I knew I'd be a bit slower on the singletrack descent than I would on my hard tail. The track markers indicated every kilometre how far we had left (starting somewhere north of 80km) and they were ticking down extremely slowly, worrying me about when we'd get to Taumarunui.

There were a lot of amazing bridges to cross and Jonathan was often going on ahead then waiting for those behind to come through and photograph/film them with his actual camera.

The second half of the Timber Trail involved some bony bits where my rear dry bag (with the bodge strap due to being shipped with only one of two straps) flew off multiple times. Not so comfortable for me on a fixed fork either but fortunately it was relatively short.

In the urgency to get through to Ongarue I kind of missed the spiral. I noticed and went through the tunnel (with GoPro running to show kids) but didn't realise what it was. Another "compulsory" photo missed. We thought Jonathan was long gone and Brett was far behind us but we all ended up together at the end of the Timber Trail and then headed towards Taumarunui along the gravel road.

I was quite cold but not enough to fish out and put another layer under my jacket. Also hungry as a long time since lunch. We knew there would probably only be the BP open by the time we got to town after 10pm and who knows what food would be there. So in this state I stopped to pee in the dark on the side of the road and stepped both (dry) feet into a smelly bog. Just what I needed.

Coming into the outskirts of Taumarunui (Golf Road) I saw a cemetery that looked familiar then realised my mum is in there. So popped in for a visit. Wondered what she'd think of this malarky. Probably an avid dot watcher sending messages regularly. 20 years in a couple weeks time to the day since she was buried there.

Got to BP and it was a good one with plenty of food. We didn't have a booking for accommodation anywhere even campsite due to lack of reception all day but Jonathan had a spot in a friend's airbnb and thankfully invited us (in brevet spirit) to camp in his roomy room, which all three of us did.

Day 7: Taumarunui to Bridge to Nowhere

Jonathan was going to try and make 5pm jetboat from Bridge to Nowhere and Brett left with him (before he left, Jonathan tried to talk me out of stopping in Wellington). Scott and I were not keen to be rushed again as had not been through there so decided we'd catch first jetboat 8:30am next day instead. So time for a sleep in, resupply and cooked breakfast. In the end we didn't get away until a rather late 10am! I also had to stop to book my flight home from Wellington and then catch back up to Scott.

We could see through to the Central Plateau mountains. The gravel road undulated and we came out at Whakahora where Scott was keen for a break. The next part had a reputation for mud and also had the big climb of the day.
It turned out conditions were dry on the climb but here was a lot of highly enjoyable singletrack through lush native bush, ridable bridges etc. This is the route of the Te Araroa as well. I liked this section a lot more than the Timber Trail.

At the top the (by now) fire road forked at the summit there was a short walk to a lookout which both of us did. We could see Mt Ngauruhoe/Tongariro to the east and Mt Taranaki to the west in the misty evening light. The descent was muddy and rough, not a good combo on a gravel bike especially with my dry bag coming loose repeatedly as a result. Slow progress for me. Scott got well ahead. Before long it was dark and the bridges narrow enough to have to tilt the bike up.
I reached the last campsite before the bridge and found Brett already set up. I knew Scott was intending on going on to the bridge itself so I had a quick meal and set up my tent.

It really was the middle of nowhere but I was texting from my tent via satellite including asking "is Scott on the bridge?" as I couldn't access internet for the tracker.

Day 8: Bridge to Nowhere to Hunterville

Next morning was a quick ride through to the Bridge but not much time to linger before getting to the boat. The jetboat ride was far longer than I expected. Plenty of people in canoes and kayaks and waterfowl flying alongside. We had a long break at the jetboat office, including finally getting to put a new coin battery in my down shifter. No more issues with that failing in the cold.

Next section all tarmac I decided to go ahead at my own pace with Scott and Brett riding together. One cafe stop and then I left them well back for Wanganui and a comprehensive resupply.

Up the historic lift then onto the fast highway to Hunterville I was pushing speeds of up to 55km/hr on slight negative gradients with no danger of spinning out. Couldn't sit on aerobars at those speeds due to my 70mm risers causing speed wobbles.

Reached Hunterville and the hotel 7:45pm. Brett, also keen to not finish in the dark, had just got there and it was last orders for dinner so ordered ahead for Scott. Met a woman who said she'd done Sounds 2 Sounds 3x and TA 6x and this was her last TA. Camped on the lawn, great spot with covered areas for bikes and clotheslines right next to campsite.

Day 9: Hunterville to Eketahuna

A small chunk of SH1 but fortunately plenty of shoulder before the turnoff to Vinegar Hill which we soon exited onto quiet gravel roads. At one point a speedster in later start wave from us passed us at pace on his aerobars. I rang my aunt to let her know I was coming through and vaguely when so we could meet up in Ashurst. To allow time for me to meet up with them I went on ahead from Ariki. The last straight bit to Ashurst was busy with speeding traffic. Local kids heading home from school were chatty about my bike. It was good to spend an hour catching up with Olive and Trevor.

Checked the tracker and Scott and Brett still a ways back and only intending to get to Pahiatua so I headed off up the hill on my own. The climb over the new road was well set up with wide separated cycle paths but very windy, hence the numerous wind turbines I guess. Riding close by the turbines themselves felt like being in the Wild Robot movie with the stopped ones looking "sad". The descent with strong cross winds was sketchy at times, having to slow right down to avoid being blown into a fence.

Reached Pahiatua quite early and grabbed early dinner with half a cooked chicken and some salad. Great resupply supermarket and awesome picnic tables and rubbish bins nearby to scoff and off. While eating I FaceTime'd family and rang ahead to the Inn in Eketahuna to book a room for myself saying it was 25km so I'd be at most two hours. Checked TA guidebook right after and it was 35km! Back on bike about 7:20pm I still arrived just after 9pm and they were welcoming and well set up for cyclists (a few others there too with their bikes in hallway). Excellent value.

Day 10: Eketahuna to Lower Hutt

Fellow TA cyclists were off very quietly before I even got up 5:45. I don't get the appeal of intentionally riding in the dark for an hour but I guess I've ended up doing it (unintentionally) at the end of the day some days! I ended up catching up to a pair of them after Masterton, chatting to Tony who'd had his titanium frame repaired in Wanganui. Very lucky to get that done.

Decent stop in Masterton for a coffee and some extra food. The Golden Shears had just been.

Martinborough I had thought of for lunch stop but it was super busy with closed roads for a major fair. So I dodged my way through and out the other side, finding a picnic table in a rest area to eat my copious leftover food instead. Wasn't sure I had enough water but assumed I'd be able to find some on the way.
The road from there to near Featherston was another state highway and unpleasantly busy, presumably also due to the fair. I just tried to get through it as fast as possible, passing Tony and his mate again in the process.

Met some Feb 16 wave folk near the base of the Rimutaka climb. My Garmin had it as the second last climb on North Island GPX when I thought it would be the last. I got on the aerobars for the nice consistent gradient and some music in my headphones for what I expected would be a long climb. I left my radar on in case anyone wanted to pass me (e.g. day trippers) but there was plenty of room generally anyway. It went off once in a straight section and an e-biker roared past.

I had my GoPro on the headlight mount on my bike so when I got to the first tunnel I just got out my headlamp. However, halfway through the long summit tunnel it started flashing and then went dim. Got out my bike light and it wouldn't turn on (I'd had charging issues with it) so swapped to the spare battery.

Took photo at the top with the sign where TA riders were promised free $10 credit for ice cream/drink/smoothie with showing photo then started descent. I met the e-biker who'd passed me pushing his bike, front tyre flat. Was a long way to get out from there! I offered help and all he needed was an allen key to get front wheel off.

Part way down the descent I got the beep to turn from the Garmin and off I went uphill on what felt like a detour towards Goat Rock. This was the mystery last climb and it was a decent effort. Stopped at a creek to fill a bottle with welcome fresh cool water.

Just coming out of this detour I had some familiar looking cyclists come across me at the intersection. They'd missed the turn and just carried on! So rode with them to the bottom.

At the dairy they demanded a TA sticker which I didn't have. They wouldn't accept tracker or any other evidence. Disappointing. I texted Scott to say not to bother but unfortunately he didn't read it properly and ended up with same disappointment. Small thing but in the moment it feels bigger. And you don't feel like spending money in a place with that rigid attitude.

The cycle trails to Upper Hutt and onwards were a bit tricky to follow especially around highways. I always find this e.g. you have to turn left to turn right and the signs are sometimes in the least obvious place.

Towards the end I used Google Maps alongside the GPX on the Garmin in alignment to know when to escape the route and get to my friend Simon's place for the night. Got there 6:30 so a nice early finish.

Day 11: Lower Hutt to Ferry Terminal

Scott had stopped in Featherston but my flight was not until the evening so I decided to wait until he came through in the early afternoon and ride with him to the (my) finish. There was a some drizzle around but it stopped by the time I got back on the trail. It goes to show we had very little weather the whole time.

Obligatory photo at the Interislander terminal then a cafe stop while I bid Scott good luck continuing his TA while Simon kindly came to fetch me (he also found me a bike box and took me to airport).

Thought on 1/2 TA

Would I rather have continued on? I think the answer is yes. I was feeling strong by Wellington. But I didn't want it enough to ask for another week from Katherine, making it probably three weeks away. I also hadn't liked the busy state highway sections in the north and there was a lot more in the south. Maybe another time I'll do the whole thing solo with urgency in two weeks. Or do it in a few years with my now 8 year old who has already done a couple of overnight bikepacking trips with me.