Tuatara 1000

After contracting COVID for the first time two weeks after finishing the Sounds to Sound I ended up with a form of Long Covid. A mild form but for 6 months I was running an alert on my Garmin to keep my heart rate below 140 because I'd trigger Post Exertion Malaise (PEM) otherwise. Boring flat rides was all I could do. Even during those rides, if forgot and stood up for an overpass, rather than changing down and spinning slowly, that would be enough to trigger suffering the next few days.

I figured the Tuatara 1000 was long days low intensity and hopefully my body could cope with it. My priority was to try and finish because if I triggered my symptoms I'd struggle to continue. So I was hoping to ride within myself; use my super low gears where needed.

A few days out from the start I was watching the forecast and realised it was going to a wet one the first day. Also no official camping in Mosgiel, Dunedin was at 212km mark. And from my S2S experience it's always harder on a Saturday night in Feb to get a roof over your head. So I booked an airbnb in Mosgiel. The only thing I could find was a caravan with a roof over it, kitchen outside on deck, in East Taieri. By that I was committed to doing in the planned six days despite wondering if I felt good would I push on to Dunedin the first night and keep doing 200+km days like the S2S, finishing in five.

Day 1: Gore to Mosgiel

The clock tower gong by the trout was a surprisingly nice way to start the roll out. I was hoping for a gentle warm up but Mountain Road was full of steep pinches. My body since COVID doesn't like to start hard and it wasn't comfortable then or the rest of the ride at least to Lawrence. The forecast rain fortunately stayed away apart from little sprinkles now and again.

At one point I rode up a climb and my Garmin beeped at me saying I was off route. It hadn't notified me of the turn or on the way up the climb so I had to turn around having ridden a nice chunk of ascent. The number of times it did this was infuriating but the Tuatara is a road based route with many turns so you need the nav running rather than just the map with the coloured line.

Rounding the corner after Tuapeka Mouth into a solid headwind, Paul was well ahead of me and I was settled into the aero bars. Just before Lawrence there was a crew of a mum and kids with a sign "Go Team Escott" but cheering every rider coming past.

A planned decent long stop at the cafe and just as we were about to leave Kim Escott arrived, I think quite buoyed by the support.

We met John and Sue again leaving Lawrence who had arrived well after us but, due to efficiency, left about the same time. This was to be a pattern for the rest of the brevet.

The ride through Waipori was varied and interesting with big views into the distance and vegetation changing from plantation pine forest to native bush, including beech, nearer the dam. Breaking out into the plains the rain finally settled in enough to don raingear.

Arriving in Mosgiel sometime after 7pm Paul suggested an Indian restaurant he'd been to during the GSB last year. It was right across the road but as the lights turned green Paul's front chainring went "clunk" and he had to walk. The car behind tooted impatiently. That was the start of Paul's mechanicals that were to plague him the next day and a half.

We were hungry and ordered plenty to eat inside out of the rain. Fast service. Meantime we saw J&S arrive across the road and go into the fish and chip shop. I texted John and told him where we were (though it was kinda obvious from the bikes outside) and he pointed out they were still struggling to find somewhere to stay. Everything booked up (Saturday night in February) and campsite closed since they last did Tuatara. So I messaged our hosts and asked if they could camp on the deck which was ok'd. So we all rode out to East Taeri in the dark and rain.

Day 1 stats: 189km 2700m 11hrs (moving) 12:30 (elapsed)

Day 2: Mosgiel to Taeri Mouth

A bit of a slow start. Paul changed out his derailleur hanger in hope that had something to do with his shifting issues after his Mosgiel incident. Didn't get away after seven, half an hour or so after J&S.

The steep consistent climb up Whare "Flat" was a long time starting and I thought it would be a test of Paul's limited gearing but he stood up and sped off into the distance. I was having a slow start as is common for me--I probably would have ridden up it quicker if I'd carried on the night before! Paul was waiting for me at the top and commented that my climbing legs seemed to be "gone". Paul and I had ridden together on some big climbs on the GSB in Jan 2023 and this sort of climb I'd normally be creeping ahead (sometimes even while FaceTiming family, as I did on the Pisa range climb to Snowfarm).

On arrival in Dunedin we ended up getting coffee from McD's which was poor quality and with especially with food cost about same as a proper cafe. Then we passed a better option on the route. Note to self: check route for supply points rather than just GMaps which was proving rather unreliable.

We caught up to J&S again just on the start of the climb around the hills near Port Chalmers. This was a steep but lovely flowing sealed climb I'd really like to come back to on my roadie. After that it was the flat sections around the waterfront to Portobello where we stopped for lunch. We had a tailwind into the Peninsula.

I've long wanted to ride the Otago Peninsula as a road ride but the Tuatara soon branches off into the gravel on the other side and up through the hills. I missed a turn after the top and started heading down the hill towards Dunedin due to traffic, including a bus passing me on the narrow road.

Then there was the only MTB section of the whole route, down to the coast. I went ahead on Paul's invitation (he was on a gravel bike) and really enjoyed the descent. Sometime later I got a text from him saying he'd got a flat and had to put in a tube. Part two of his mechanicals.

So with the mechanical delays and later start we were destined for Taeri Mouth tonight rather than the Kaitangata I'd mentioned the night before. (my late mother would have been pleased. Taeri Mouth was where her family went every year for summer holidays from Dunedin). Resupply options in the part of Dunedin we were in (St Clair) were not great. I waited for Paul at the small 4 Square so we could optimise resupply, sharing some things you couldn't buy in smaller amounts. Then we met J&S again outside a dairy on the next suburban hill and downed some chocolate milk.

One more flatty stop and then the long winding road into the hills behind Taeri Mouth with some steep pinches but big views.

Day 2 stats: 144km 2450m 9:30 (moving) 12:40 (elapsed)

Day 3: Taeri Mouth to Catlins

J&S departed about an hour before us in the dark around 6am. Paul and I had intended to head off around daylight. Paul crept ahead over the hilly first section but I caught him up at the bridge over the Toko, his bike inverted. Oh no! I had lent him my patch kit (as an old school alternative to his kit) but it wasn't sticking to either tube. Paul eventually realised the tubes were a little small so were "stretching" the patches off. I lent him one of my two spare lightweight 29er tubes. Fortunately he had no more tyre issues the rest of the brevet.

After Toko Mouth the going was much flatter and I got on the aero bars. Apart from a short stop for some dairy cows crossing we had a smooth run through Kaitangata into Balclutha. A dotwatching Scott had texted "subway for lunch in Balclutha?". Subway seems to be a popular bikepacking option but I had not had it in many years. We met Steve F there who had some recommendations including how to take one for the road. Steve was doing short fast days travelling light via prebooking so would have a massive sleep in then still pass us sometime during the day. We didn't get properly head of him until after Invercargill.

More open straight roads after Balclutha then I was delighted to meet the rest of Team Escott with the two kids loaded up with gear and their proud dad Harry who I had first got to know on the 2021 GSB.

After this was the first of the "out and backs", this one to Nugget Point. The route said we must go all the way to the lighthouse and my tracker was attached to my bike so I was going to push it down the tourist track then ended up riding it slowly instead.

Back into the rolling back country heading towards Owaka. A more hilly country with narrow winding roads and blind corners but no real climbs. It felt like the middle of nowhere but then I got a call on my phone, my wife Katherine wanting to FaceTime with the kids. It was probably 4pm or something. So I put my earphones on and chatted for a while and reception was perfect. So many out of the way places with good coverage and others you'd expect it not so good.

I rode straight past Owaka, catching up to J&S almost immediately. Beating them at their own game: you can't be more efficient than not stopping at all! Rode two abreast chatting for a while before heading off up over some hills and into the Catlins. There was a massive descent down to Papatowai which was fun and then the magic of the bush and wetland got me a bit mesmerised. I slowed down and freewheeled looking around me and before I realised it, there was Paul. He'd stopped at Owaka but caught me up. We called in at the friendly store in Papatowai to buy a little extra food (they gave us freebee weka bars too) and scoffed some dinner we'd brought from Balclutha and within 10 minutes J&S turned up. We were all headed to the same place for the night once again, the Whistling Frog.

Day 3 stats: 179km 2450m 10:20 (moving) 13:25 (elapsed)

Day 4: Catlins to Riverton

We decided to try and do an early 6ish start today which I am still not sure was the best idea as we were in the middle of the Catlins but would not see much of it for the first hour in the dark. Paul left his resupply overflow knapsack on the back of the door of the cabin but only realised at the bottom of the first big hill so decided not to go back up. If he had he'd probably still have caught me up before Curio Bay. Another slow start for me.

We travelled with J&S out to Slope Point. They had done Tuatara twice before but you wouldn't know it given their enthusiasm for photos etc at the point.

I had found the hills to Slope Point and back quite hard work. I was looking forward to first coffee of the day and fortunately it started to flatten out and Paul and I arrived at Fortrose Cafe just after 11am. J&S arrived about 15 minutes later but left around the same time. I commented that we'd had a 50 minute stop. Sue pointed out "and wasn't it glorious". Yes indeed!

Next section was the whitebaiting cribs along the river where I got almost bitten by an aggressive black dog. I warned John by text but it was gone when they came past.

Paul went on ahead as he wanted to go to bike shop in Invercargill to sort out his chain (a twisted link). So I was meandering along in the sun (none of the forecast rain until evening) on my own. This part of the route just kept twisting and turning and I kept getting passed without realising the vehicle was coming due to cross winds and gravel noise of my own tyres. The worst was a truck and trailer on a sealed section that almost side swiped me as another truck was coming the other way so no room for me. I realised a radar might have been useful, I'd have seen the opposing truck, had the radar beep for the one behind, and jumped off the road before it passed.

Catching back up with Paul in Invercargill we decided not to waste any time and pushed on for Riverton. The campground was booked out by a school. I had in mind to carry on to Colac Bay which (with the out and back to the point) was another 20km but Paul wasn't so keen. We had some nice tailwinds but mostly cross winds, some on rough gravel, arriving Riverton just after 7. Paul called in at a local pub and got a number of a woman who had a couple of motel units one of which we got. Cheap but really comfortable, our best digs of the whole brevet and overlooking the surf beach (more of interest to Paul than me).

Day 4 stats: 198km 1365m 10:45 (moving) 13:30 (elapsed).

Day 5: Riverton to Te Anau

With the weather coming in the night before we'd neglected to do the out and back to the point so had to do it in the morning including a short double back (I'm a stickler for doing the route fully even when not racing). The surf was still visible in the dark (6:15 start) and we met J&S before 7 this time. I remember a yellow AA style sign with kids carrying surfboards. Not one I'd seen before.

Mostly cruising farm roads on the gravel, the highlight was a little gorge with native bush and a lot of birdsong. No kōkako sounds (despite the newspaper reporter writing up all about a supposed sighting near Tuatapere).

First coffee of the day at Tuatapere including a resupply at the 4 square across the road. J&S caught us up here once again.

The next section was more of the same before a right turn onto a sealed road where the Garmin indicated no turns for something like 70km. It was a deceptively slight incline and I struggled to get a comfortable spin going. Knees a bit sore too. I suspect I was just expecting to be moving faster. Paul was well out of sight.

Eventually reached Blackmount, catching Paul, which seemingly had quite a good cafe but I had had been rather enthusiastic in the Tuatapere resupply so didn't go in.

A whole lot more sealed road after Blackmount including a solid climb and a massive extended descent towards Manapouri where Paul was waiting.

After this it was mostly a single track (with a bit of road thrown in) of the Lake 2 Lake trail. I remember the Te Anau end of it from the S2S. But this time I was really low on energy. I'd eaten heaps of food all day, perhaps too much! Both my knees were sore too. At least it was both and not just the left (which was encouraging recovery from my 2022 ACL injury).

Day 5 stats: 192km 1780m 10:40 (moving) 14:50 (elapsed)

Day 6: Te Anau to Gore

Alarm set for 5am I had just got up when I heard a familiar ticking free hub sound. Someone was already setting off! I found it was a lone Tuatara participant who must have always been just ahead of us and J&S had left perhaps even earlier!

Wolfed down a big breakfast, since I'd gone to town in Fresh Choice the night before knowing I didn't have to carry it far. Then I tried to go back to the route via Garmin rather than looking in the TopoGPS app. This lost me about 10 minutes.

Eventually turned off the highway as the morning light was emerging and started along the gravel roads. One ute coming the other way made no attempt to slow down and flicked a stone which hit my ankle. A little painful. You have to close your eyes and mouth because of the dust sometimes. Cyclists know to slow down but most of the locals along the route didn't bother and often passed quite close.

I was on a bit of a mission to try and catch J&S who had an hour head start on us. I felt we should get to Gore before them! We caught them at Mossburn cafe after a lovely speedy section of the Round the Mountains bike path, some of which was a bit eroded but didn't slow us down. Paul lost his pump off his bike so I lent him mine given I was still fully tubeless with no hint of problems.

On the run in to Dipton were some lovely rock formations. I had a feeling this might be a bit of a rock climbing area.

We'd caught back up to J&S (who left the Mossburn before us) and rode with them for a while then I got on the aero bars and tried to gap everyone. I rode straight past Dipton where I should, in hindsight, have topped up my water bottles for the long hot dry section to come. I stopped briefly on the start of the next gravel section and Paul cruised past. That would be the last I'd see of him until Gore.

Another proper climb, steep and gravelly but with rewarding views soon followed.

From there the road just kept undulating and it was hot and I was trying to ration my water. Into the Hokonui hills the upwards sections seemed to get bigger and towards the end I was kind of over it.

Arrived in Gore and Paul was changed, bike already loaded on car and he had a drink in hand to offer me. Lovely. I think he was at least half an hour ahead of me. My climbing legs had never come back from the first day. I suspect something to do with the long covid recovery thing but I guess I'll never truly know.

Paul and I grabbed some dinner while dot watching to try and catch J&S at finish. It's a bit of anti climax at the end of a brevet if no-one there to greet you which I think was the case for Paul.

Overall I was pleased to get through in the six days. I enjoyed the pace and the company of Paul, John and Sue. I don't think I could have done it much faster and I think I'd have enjoyed it less if I had.

Day 6 stats: 187km, 1900m 10:34 (moving) 12:15 (elapsed)